Frequently Asked Questions

For SuperPrints models, my standard starting point is:

The important part is that SuperPrints files are already configured for these settings in Bambu Studio. So in most cases, you can simply open the 3MF file and print it. You don’t need to spend hours tuning your slicer.

It varies enormously depending on the model, printer and number of colors. On a single-nozzle multicolor printer, some of my minis can take over 24 hours. On a toolchanger they’re generally around 4-6 hours, while single-color prints are often only 1-2 hours.

That said, there are multiple ways to effectively reduce print time and filament waste dramatically. Read more about those in this article.

SuperPrints colors are built as separate geometry, so don’t use the Paint Tool! Select the individual parts in the Object/Feature Tree and assign your filament colors there. This gives you much cleaner color boundaries.

Here's a short video illustrating this.

I use Matte PLA for almost all of my miniatures. It hides layer lines extremely well and gives the models a much cleaner finish straight off the plate. Regular PLA works too, but I highly recommend trying matte.

Nope! Occasionally I’ll clean up a tiny bit of stringing with a quick pass of a small kitchen torch, but that’s about it. SuperPrints are designed to come off the plate ready for battle.

All my minis are sculpted at 40mm scale because it’s the sweet spot for clean results on a standard 0.4mm nozzle while still fitting a standard 1-inch grid. If you know what you’re doing and have a smaller nozzle, you can absolutely scale smaller.

Here's a short video illustrating this.

Yes! If you prefer more traditional 28mm / 32mm tabletop minis, try printing them around 75% scale. For the best results at that size, I recommend a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height.

It’s insane how much detail you can get out of these minis that way.

Nope! Almost every SuperPrints miniature is designed to print completely support-free. I design the poses and geometry around FDM from the beginning specifically to avoid them. On the rare occasion a model does require support, I’ll clearly mention it.

Want to know how that works? Read more here.

On a single-nozzle multicolor printer: yes, it can be. Every filament change requires some material to be purged. You can dramatically reduce the waste per miniature by printing multiple models at once or eliminate most purge waste by using a toolchanger.

If waste is your main concern, you can also print the single-color STL and paint it yourself.

More tips & tricks on how to reduce purge waste on single color printers in this article.

Start with your build plate. Most failed minis I see are caused by poor bed adhesion. Make sure the plate is clean and avoid touching the print surface with your fingers.

If adhesion isn’t the problem, check your filament. Moist PLA can cause stringing, inconsistent extrusion and poor surface quality.

I’ve put my full troubleshooting tips in this article.